Sunday, March 2, 2008

Dona Paula 2006 Malbec Estate

Ahhh, Malbec.
Originating from the Bordeaux region of France, this grape is among the "big six" for red wine grapes. However, its fame and fortune often end there. In France it is generally a grape used for blending, with very little vine being devoted to its improvement or success.

The story in Argentina is quite the opposite. Malbec has found renewed acclaim and initial glory in the sun-drenched climate of Argentina. This is Argentina's signature grape and it is quickly making a new name for itself with red wine lovers. The Malbec grape is a thin skinned grape and needs more sun and heat than either Cabernet Sauvignon or a Merlot to mature. The prolonged growing season for the grapes in this high desert, which can have 50 percent more growing days than cool Bordeaux, makes the tannins in the Malbecs from Mendoza sweet and approachable. In Mendoza, under the shadow of the Andes Mountains, the grape enjoys its vacation from the more moderate climate of the Medoc. Here, there are hot summer temperatures and the grape is left hanging long into the growing season to ripen and soften its rough tannins. It ripens "midseason" and it can bring very deep color, ample tannin, and a particular plum-like flavor component to add complexity to Claret blends. The wines are rich, dark and juicy. As a varietal it creates a rather inky red (or violet), intense wine, so it is also commonly used in blends, such as with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon to create the renowned red French Bordeaux blend.

Malbec has characteristics that fall somewhere between Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Malbec is typically a medium to full-bodied red wine. Ripe fruit flavors of plums and blackberry give it a jammy characteristic. The tannins are typically a bit tight and the earthy, wood-like appeal makes for a fairly rustic wine.



Today's Review
Producer : Doña Paula
Method of Production : Handpicked grapes from 35-year-old vines were destemmed, partially crushed (20% were left as whole berries and went through carbonic maceration) and cold soaked for 48 hours. Fermentation took place in stainless steel tanks for eight days at 25°C, with the wine left in tank for a further six days to undergo malolactic conversion. The wine was then pressed from the skins and 20% was aged in new French and American oak barrels for six months. It was bottled without being fined or filtered
Characteristics: Intense red color with violet hues. Complex aromas with ripe plums, blackberry, blueberry, sweet tar, licorice, black pepper, mint, truffle with a hint of mocha flavors, giving an expressive and typical Argentinean character. It has sweet and smooth tannins, nice body with supple and long finish.
From Robert Parker's Wine Advocate: "The 2006 Malbec Estate was aged in new French and American oak for 12 months. Deep crimson in color, the wine has a slightly muted nose of cedar, spice box, black cherry and cassis. This leads to a medium-bodied, elegant Malbec with a silky texture and light tannins. It should evolve for 1-2 years and drink well through 2016. It is a good value." (Dec. 2007)
From Wine Spectator: "Solid, with a juicy core of red plum, raspberry and red licorice flavors backed by alluring spice and floral notes on the finish. Drink now through 2008." (Oct. 31. 2007)
From Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar: "Aromas of dark raspberry, licorice, minerals and spicy oak, lifted by a violet topnote. Sweet but firm on entry, then a supple fruit bomb in the middle palate, offering juicy flavors of dark raspberry, blackberry and violet. Perhaps a bit youthfully bound-up, but this clean, intensely flavored wine finishes with seamless tannins and very good length."
Pete's Notes: before dinner—more spice, tar and tobacco than fruit and berries, solid tannins on the side of tongue
With steak dinner, perfect compliment, protein/fat smooths out ‘rough’ notes, brings out more of the ripe berry and juiciness…better with food than without